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Lowering Suspension on the Honda XL600V Transalp

Posted by on May 8, 2011

Will start with the harder part, the rear end (even if we did lower the front first and that was not enough).

Found online people that had extended the frame to shock link arms, but that would involve cutting and welding a cast aluminum part, and also making it very hard to go back. And its an advanced part with a bearing supported connection back at the frame.

All done

So took the other option that I have seen with replacing the lower shock mount, buying a lower one would set us back €140 and the part is not that advanced to make yourself. So if you want to save some cash and have the resources, you can see what we did.

Started off by getting the shock out. The top mount bolt can be tricky to get out, I used something to gently bend the airbox back and a long rod of some kind to push it out.

Once out I measured how much the spring is compressed before disassembling the shock. They say don’t hammer spring compression nuts loose but if using aluminum that is softer you can get away with it. It is best to get real hook wrenches (did the for assembly):

Going at the spring compressor nut

Once both compressor rings are off you can slide the spring off and the cover and hold up the spring stopper plate and unbolt the lower mount:

Taking of lower mount

Went to my dad’s friend’s place who has a workshop and found some suitable material to make a new shorter mount from:

Suitable bar to make new lower mount

So put it on top and drew the shape so we knew where to cut the bar:

Some more measuring

Setting up cutting tool:

Cutting it

By previously measuring the piece with parts on the motorcycle we saw that shortening the lower mount ~10mm would give us 30-40 mm back at the wheel so after some measuring for that we punched a mark and drilled:

Marking where to drill

Started with a small drill and here is the 10mm drill, we simplified the part a little instead of having threads on one side we just used a bolt going all the way through and a nut:

10mm drill next

Marking the center on the top:

Top hole

In 3 steps we got up to a 12,5mm drill that is the correct size if the hole will be threaded M14 x 1,5 mm that is fine threads:

The up to 12,5 mm, will be theaded

Could borrow the M14 x 1,5 mm thread tool at works big workshop:

Borrowing a thread tool at work M14x1.5

Cut away the lower end:

Cutting it open

Smoothed it out and added the notch to prevent the spring stopper plate from rotating, it mirrored but should not matter:

Ground out the stop for spring plate

Since the original part had more threads then my reworked part a nut would be added for extra support, but it was too thick and would interfere with the shock link:

This is cutting it to close

After some grinding it was thin enough:

Grinding down the nut

Perfect

Plenty of loctite and we are ready to assemble the shock again:

And plenty of loctite

With the lower mount it is enough to just tighten it well, spring compression is best to have the hook wrenches, we tightened it a little less then before:

Borrowed real hook wrenches for tightening the spring nuts

Some pictures to compare lower mounts:

Comparison

Comparison

Did a mock up with just axle and seals since we waited for this bearing that needed replacement:

And it clears, only a mockup with seals and axle in place since bearing was busted

Put shock in place, a rod to hold it in place:

A rod to keep shock in place

And getting the bolt in place required a hammer to bend the air box gently back and another rod to push the bolt with:

Pin to push on bolt and hammer shaft to bend air box out enough to get bolt in place

Thought we would have clearance for a lock nut but was wrong, it barely touches so took it off and shortened the bolt a little more:

So shortened bolt a little more

Since its a normal bolt I used some more loctite and tighten it up and now it is fine:

And it clears, not much but enough

The other side had more room:

More room on this side

Up here its hard to see, it might touch ever so little but that is with the rear wheel off the ground:

Here it might actually touch just a little

Just to put the rear wheel back and Hilary’s Duck Legs can enjoy the lowered bike:

Hilarys duck legs are happy

The front end was easy, we only pushed the forks a little higher in the triple clamp.

Using some heavy weight strapped to the rear end to hold it down.

Prefer to take the front wheel off and do one side at a time, tried just loosening the triple clamp some times but always ended up with a crooked front end. When doing one side at a time there is less risk of that. On the Transalp you also need to loosen the front fender and the support brace to make it easier working with the individual fork legs:

Took front wheel off, a weight holding the rear down

Loosened one side and pushed it up:

Comparision

And here is the other side. With anything concerning forks, it is good to use a torque wrench to not over tighten them. So we checked the manual and tightened the clamp bolts accordingly:

Other side done

Then its just to bolt it back together!

All this lowering made us end up with a center stand lifting the rear wheel 10 centimeters and making it extremely hard to get it up on the center stand:

hmm 10 cm of lift is a bit much

This is not work we can be proud of it was a real hack job and all just made by eye sight not a measurement taken:

Have dad help out and here we are halfway

Hilary giving it some bling with shiny black paint:

Hilary giving it some shiny paint

Next to what was on the bike before:

Comparison

And in place on the bike:

And in place